sv evi

06/01/2006, Costa Rica, Part 4

The anchorage here, while fine in calm weather, is exposed in a blow. Returning that afternoon we found a fishermans net tangled in Guava’s anchor chain. After unravelling for an hour we were free and decided to remain anchored while our new friends Mark and Liz on S/V Scholarship departed for the well protected Bahia Ballena, a few hours sail. That evening a Papagayo (common, strong Costa Rican wind) blew onshore and was mixed with frequent lightning and a deluge of rain. The effects kept us on anchor watch and the only issue was a snubber line (rope tied to anchor chain to relieve stress on equipment) snapped but the ground tackle held Guava in place and off the lee shore. Our evening entertainment was we were treated to a spectacular lightning show. Beats the Discovery channel!!

While cruising Costa Rica, news from Seattle required me to return there for a couple of months and began the search for a safe affordable place to leave Guava. The options for this becomes less and less south of Mexico. If there is a traditional marina it is usually unaffordable and full of large sportfishing yachts. This led us to check Costa Rica Yacht Club (CRYC) in Punteranes. We were skeptical but found it acceptable for a haul-out and workyard. With a couple of weeks before returning to the States we made the sail south to Isla del Cano, a protected biosphere preserve, 12 miles offshore, at the southern end of the country.

Breaking up the passage put us anchored near Quepos in a secluded cove. According to the cruising guides and all the computer info we had (more on this in a minute) the rolly, theft ridden, loud, crowded, unsecure anchorage of Quepos is the only option in the area. Again we ventured out on our own and found a beautiful, small bay, Playa Issimo, around the corner. We did have to make a short hike and bus ride to get to Quepos but the private anchorage, with a number of submerged rocks (maybe why it is not recommended) for snorkeling was worth the trade. We loved it and stayed longer than we planned before sailing south.

A word on info. There are so many cruising guides, cruiser compiled CDs loaded with info, stories, waypoints, etc. as well as dozens of world charts for the computer. Granted info is very helpful but you must to be careful to not let it determine all your actions. I think of it as the “Lonley Planet Syndrome”. We use those books also but sometimes you need to step of the beaten path. For the most part we use all the info at hand for a safe passage and to help find interesting places but some of our greatest finds were born out of curiosity. OK…that said let me get back to writing so the next cruiser reading this will know where to go. Heh, Heh, Heh!