sv evi

06/06/2007

08 49.43 S, 140 03.85 W

So here is the scene. We are sailing in 15-20kts of wind in partly cloudy skies with occasional squalls (short bursts of incredibily heavy rain, a deluge that rarely lasts more than 15 minutes)a welcome power wash Guava and us, the sheer walls and towering spires of the island rise vertically from the rugged shore, dozens of dolphins playing on the bow in the 86 degree clear water, hooking another 12+ pound tuna or much larger wahoo while a giant manta greets us as we pull into a narrow channel and emerge in a protected bay, anchoring in a sandy bottom surrounded by coral near the beach. The shore is full of coconut palms, bananas, mangos and lime trees fill the terrain and only a couple of houses in view. This could be any of our dozen anchorages we have visited in our month in the Marquesas Islands.

Other than the two larger towns (still very small) the locals in these remote bays lead a simple life fishing, collecting fruit and creating artisan crafts. They are mostly polynesian with their own Marquesan language while speaking french to visitors. They are very family oriented with everyone attending the ever present christian church in their sunday best. Otherwise clad in shorts and flip flops exposing elaborate tatoos with all the local tribal designs, many on the face and neck.

Money in these villages carries little value but they generously offer a dinghy full of fresh fruit in trade for anything. Most coveted are .22 caliber bullets (ammo for hunting wild pigs and goats) and beauty products. Unfortunately we didnt carry these items and could have been kings had we but they were happy with t-shirts, fishing gear or as we found with Danial on Fatu Hiva just someone new to talk to. We asked him to freeze our gallon water jugs in his cooler so we could have ice, and the next day he brought us into his home, sharing fresh baguettes, beverages and conversation and loaded us down with frozen fish, more bread and fruit. A generous gesture from a place where the supply ship from Tahiti only arrives twice a month. Tho we couldnt help him with his favorite “cowboy movies” we did leave him with a few DVDs.

One strange thing about the islands are vehicles. Even in the most remote places where there are maybe a couple of houses with a dirt path between them and no road over the steep cliffs, there were always the Land Rover. Yep the expensive Defender series and how they got there and why they need it????? The same everywhere with all different models, 2-doors, 4-doors, hard-top, pick-up, etc., but always the Defender style. In the larger villages it was the same….50+ defenders and the couple of odd Toyota trucks.

Anaho, Nuka Hiva

Amis

Anaho

Anaho Bay

Anaho Summit

Bath

Cannibals

Commute

Countryman

Hakahetua Bounty

Hike

Island Girl

Mango Delivery

Mixer Hunt

Palms

Playa

Post-crossing Hinano

Solitude

Splash

Swimming Hole

Timmy Tuna

Ua Poa

Wow! Wahoo!

Snorkeling among the corals and fishes, hiking to waterfalls, harvesting fruit and boat projects fill most days. Yesterday after waking and enjoying morning coffee we saw two large mantas feeding in the reef a short distance from Guava. I immediately donned mask and fins and was in hot pursuit. In less than a minute i was between a pair of the gentle giants with 6 ft wingspan. I reached out and touched one on the fin as the other was swimming directly at me with his large filtering mouth agape. Beckoning Courtney to gear up and join this encounter lasted about 5 minutes and they trailed off as she approached. Within a few minutes they were back and for the next hour we were greeted with many passes as they zig-zagged back and forth feeding over the reef.

During squalls many waterfalls appear from the spires and cliffs on the various islands. Nuku Hiva claims to have the 3rd tallest in the world so we started up the trail. Winding through the low valleys filled with towering coconut palms and clumps of banana and lime trees the trail steepened reached a plateau with many ruins. In the thick brush was the remnants of a large village with many different buildings. All that remained was the volcanic stone foundations and some walls of the ancient structures.

Everything is very, very expensive at least in comparison to latin america. All things are from a Tahitian supply ship which arrives twice monthly. The selection is limited but you can buy beer for $3 a pop. A six-pack….$18, a case……well lets see….$3 each X 24….yikes!! Soooo we have been drinking rum we brought from Ecuador for $3 a bottle and climbing coconut trees for mixer. Drinking vodka we bought from Ecuador for $4 a bottle and picking limes for mixer. At least the baguettes are fresh and cheap which are subsidised by the french government and cost 50 cents. Of course if you are not at the boulangerie by 7AM then yer outta luck….sold out….wait til tomorrow…..unless it is a holiday then everything closes early, then the day off…or 2…or 3… then a recovery day. Aaaahhhh the French. They have mastered the significance of manana better than Mexico.

With the 55ft Sora, our buddy boat for the passage leaving us behind the first day we have reunited with many other cruiser buddies from the mainland (Contigo, Asylum, Scholarship) and met many new boats. Of late Irie, a 33ft steel sailboat from Bellingham WA. have been at our side. Christian and Pockey (rhymes with hockey) who met in the south pacific 10 years ago, cruised Mexico for the last couple of years and made the direct passage from Baja to the Marquesas. From here we have similiar plans to reach New Zealand before typhoon season.