sv evi

06/13/2007

08 54.87 S, 140 05.92 W

After a month in many different anchorages on five Marquesan islands we have returned to the large village of Taiohae for the last chance at provisioning before the 500nm crossing to the Tuamotus for centuries know as “the dangerous archipelego” consisting on a couple of hundred square miles of low atolls and coral reefs responsible for sinking many boats….ancient and modern. Our plan was to load up on fruit, veggies and fuel before our next stop which is reported to have only coconuts and black pearls.

To our surprise our return here was the eve of many weekend activities, part of an annual celebration of pirogues (traditional kayaks) races between the islands, feasts, and the soccer finals with the parties that would surround such events. We had not decided to stay until we met Mata-Tiki…..the local tattoo artist, ambassador of Taiohae, expert woodcarver, party hound and generally nice guy.

Immediately upon meeting him his generosity was evident and we followed to his shop. It couldn’t have been more than 200 meters but he insisted that we accompany him in his car (amazingly not a Land Rover). Christian (from Irie) and I checked out his shop, carvings and thumbed through his photo book of designs he had done recently. Very nice work. All in black ink with the traditional motifs of the Marquesan style which has been around for centuries. I found a couple that “spoke” to me and told him of the manta experience we had this week in Anaho Bay. He started setting up, ready to go immediately, and I slowed him down. Remembering we were supposed to come to shore and pick-up our propane tanks (they said later) and some bread (they were out), I imagined we would be in trouble with the girls if we returned 4 hours later with no propane, no bread, intoxicated, tattooed and broke.

After a couple of afternoon cocktails on Guava and encouragement of all involved we dinghyed back to shore and found Mata-Tiki waiting at the quay. We drove around the village with many stops preparing for the evening. Along for the ride we patiently waited until we returned to his shop to pick up supplies and traveled to his house. The power had gone out on the entire island and we were to set up in his garage using the 12volt from his car to run the lights, music and tattoo gun……..hmmmmm. Sweating, me standing while he worked and dancing to fend off the bugs didnt seem as inviting as laying on his cushioned table in his air conditioned shop with good tunes and cold beer. Fortunately the power returned before we started inking. I do have complete confidence in the guy……he does have half his face, neck, shoulder and back covered with traditional tiki tats. Mata-tiki means “half tiki” in Marquesan.

Four hours later his free-hand, spontaneously created, detailed, work of art in traditional Marquesan style was complete. My torso is now pasted with a one-of-a-kind manta-ray…….and…..yep….it hurt!! With Christian in tow, Mata-Tiki took us to his house and we drank, laughed, played spoons and got on until the beers ran out and he drove us back to the dock. If it ended there it would have been a memorable experience……….

The next day Cort and I were last minute provisioning after watching the pirogue races in the morning. Irie was anchored on the home-stretch and we watched as the single-man boats passed after over three hours of paddling the modern out-rigger kayaks in the open ocean. At the store we ran into Mata-Tiki who was purchasing a case of beer and turned to us and said “football?”. We nodded and it would be impossible to refuse so we were off in his car to the Marquesan soccer finals.

Among the islands this event is on a par with the Super Bowl, without all the other possible diversions of the World Series, March Madness, NBA, NHL, NASCAR, Tiger Woods, Roger Federer or whatever sports turn you on. This is IT!! And the final was between the underdog Nuku Hiva, our host island and the larger, better funded favorite Hiva Oa.

The field was in a bowl with modest grandstands on either side and the surrounding rim packed with cars watching the match while tailgating. Our tailgate party with Mata-Tiki included his friends who were involved in supporting the team thru sponsorship and very proud of the fact that it was THEIR team. At the half with the score 4-0 Nuku Hiva the consensus was it was a sure win and the party got going early. Apparently everyone has money on the game and the stakes are high. By the final we were all looped and followed the party to the beach and eventually back to the quay. The entire day I was on display as the newest work of Mata-Tiki. I know it is nice because all the locals, mostly covered in tats themselves, were oooohhhhing and aaaaahhhhing at my new manta. Cort was done and returning her to Guava I summoned Christian for a jolt of fresh blood.

We accompanied Mata-Tiki all night to various house parties, beach parties and cruising and would fill in more but the night unfolded in somewhat of a haze. Every person we met immediately asked me “you like beer?”…not would you like a beer or may i get you a beer but…“you like beer?”. A yes response was followed by a cold Hieneken or the local Hinano in my hand. It didnt matter if I didnt want one because I liked beer. This was the same everywhere with everyone all weekend. Traveled up in the mountains to his artisan uncles house and met a crazy cast of characters and the star of the soccer match. The dozens of carvings in progress were amazing but i couldn’t get him to part with any. That would have been enough for good story but our host insisted we return to his place the next day so he could gift us with fruit for our next passage.

3 Hours In

Mata Tiki

Mata Tiki

Irie and Mata Tiki

Hahaooooooah!

Apres Fete

So back at his house we are accepting dozens of pamplemoose (sweet grapefruit), coconuts, limes and more hospitality. By the time we return to the dock it will be too late for a departure so we invited Mata-Tiki to Guava. Many rum-coconut cocktails later we deposit him on shore and said our good-byes…….sort of. Later back at Guava I heard “AH AH OOH HAH” coming from outside. We were ready for an early, drink free night when I heard that and knew we were in for more. Ahahoohhah is the Marquesan word for manta-ray and that is how he greets me as well as with a big pinch directly on my freshly inked, sensitive torso all the time laughing. Yeeoouch!! What can I do?? So a few drinks later we are at Irie and we see our chance to flee.

Again provisioning in the morning we see his car and stop by the shop for one last good-bye and find the reggae blasting, the AC on high and Christian on the table halfway thru a huge manta tattoo (different design) on his shoulder. So we finally sailed away with a nice momento…….better than a Nuku Hiva 2007 t-shirt.

A word on Marquesan people and their traditional generousity. I have spoke about trading with the locals for fruit and other items. Most of the time the locals freely give their fruit, coconuts and water without reciprocity. They always offer it before asking for anything in return and our western ways make us feel the need to barter, trade, exchange. They surely wouldn’t just give us the fruit from their trees when they could get something for it……would they? In my opinion, yes, many do. Times when we have accepted a dinghy full of fruit, prior to any agreed trade, we always return with t-shirts, shades, sundries, DVD’s. When they accept these they in turn give more gifts. This, more than not, I’ve found to be the Marquesan way. It is a giving contest and they always seem to win.

The islands are very remote and the means to get goods here is costly. So things are either outrageously priced ($8/dzn eggs) or free. Coconuts, limes, bananas, papaya, guava, mango and breadfruit all grow all over most islands and usually offered without asking. For the locals all animals, chickens, pigs, goats are all up for grabs. Fish is also plentiful and tho we have caught a few is has not been as flush as it was on the pacific coast of the americas.

Oa Pou was our last Marquesan island to visit before the 500nm passage to the Tuamotus. A day planned for preparing Guava and topping of water turned into most of a week as we again loved the place. Towering spires of 3000ft rise from the valley above the anchorage and the water is clear, warm and turquoise. Spectacular scenery, friendly locals, waterfall hikes and cruising buddies as well as the anxiety of arriving at remote atolls with trecherous passes and coralheads referred to by our friends as the “TERROR-MOTUS” made it difficult to weigh anchor.