sv evi

Panea, Mariana, my Yamaha and Kava

Funny how things come full circle.  Planning on returning to many of the same places that Guava has anchored in the past four months, Jason and I approached with trepidation.  Even tho they are precious memories, I was reluctant to relive the same experiences by revisiting the same places with Jason in tow.  He had concerns too about cruising my previous route but somehow we ended up landing in familiar villages as I did months ago.  Part of the reason is the geographical sequence in which the best anchorages unfold.  Usually a few hours of daysailing will get you to the next desirable location.  The ever changing weather is another main factor in determining pleasant passage and a safe and/or comfortable place to drop the hook.

Albert Cove and the pass with Guava and Bodhran anchored.

Bodhran shot from the Guava spreaders.

Bodhran taken with iphone thru binoculars.

Albert Cove Chart

Mahimahi on passage..again.

The approach to Albert Cove was no different regarding these issues.  Guava spent time here months back.  The entrance is a narrow pass between two breaking reefs and our approach was easy with the sun high in the sky on a mostly cloudless day.  Guava anchored in virtually the exact same spot according to the GPS info….30ft water on a sandy bottom near the bommie strewn shoreline and Bodhran anchored the usual 3 boat lengths away.

Albert Cove summit

Panea’s beach and dink.

Keke and his homemade Waka.  Regularly commutes many miles with his outrigger.

Keke and Guava

The last time here was very frustrating for me as I was hampered with an extremely infected leg (coral cut gone foul) as well as an injured back.  The majority of my time was spent convalescing on Guava as Riada and Sara Jean swam, hiked and visited the locals.  One evening on Riada they hosted a dinner and had the local caregiver of the bay out for food and drink.  There I met Panea.  He is of Banaban descent, not Fijian, as are most of the people on Rambi.  At 70 and after a stroke a dozen years ago he arrived to this paradise to recover, building a bure (grass hut) where he resides and daily swimming being his primary rehab.   Quietly sitting in the corner on Riada, mostly mute, he politely accepted food and the Jameson Whiskey I had to offer.  He did have some ‘healing’ advice for my back and leg and spoke softly while placing his hands on certain energy channels….and it did feel better.

Jason working hard

Guide Terry and Riki at summit.

Upon landing the dinghy on the idyllic beach and approaching his hut I heard his voice “you came back, you came back!"  Invited in, we sat with Panea and his neighbor Terry and talked about adventures as well as discussing his infected leg.  He remembered my problem previously and that I overnighted to Savusavu to seek medical attention.  Now I was stocked with various oral and topical antibiotics to aid the festering wound on his knee.  Yes..full circle…a physical circle of Guava returning to the start and literal with our injuries.

Panea’s Pad

Panea Riki & Terry

Terry’s Pad

Terry’s Ceiling

His thatched roof A-frame had a low hanging entrance, large elevated bed/couch area and the other half was floor covered with the typical woven mat.  A couple of shelves held some shells, trinkets, flower vase full of fresh local fare.  A transistor radio hung from the ceiling as well as a small LED light powered by the ‘battery bank’ constructed of 8 D-cells in line in a perfect sized bamboo tube and recharged by the small solar panel on the roof.  The next roof was the kitchen with a stove (coconut husk fired) and a large water cistern just outside.  Propped up in the corner was an enormous turtle shell…Panea’s ‘bear skin rug’ or ‘trophy head’ from a hunt a couple of years ago.

Panea’s Trophy

Shellback

For the next few days we visited shore daily, hiking the viewpoint and the next bay and playing music all afternoon while sitting around the kava circle.  Panea’s demeanor was much more spirited in the comfort of his own home and fueled by kava and the rum we shared.  He became chatty on many topics but surprised us with lively percussion accompaniment on the maracas.  Not just accomplished in his rhythm and technique but his ‘moves’ were perfect.  While sitting he danced, shaking with his arms over his head, smiling, singing (even when he didn’t know the words) and bursting with laughter when the song finished.  Completely unrestrained performance…I could learn something here.  He was truly ‘loud and proud”.

Panea on the shakers…and he is very good.

Panea Jam Session

Jason on a set break

Riki croons baby

Jason, Terry and liquid courage

Locals Jam

Asking us to return on sunday for more music and food we accepted.  These meals areusually the local fare of cassava, dal leaves, sweet potato, fruit, and some course thathas either fresh or tinned fish in Ramen noodles.  Surprisingly we were treated to pork….yes…they killed a pig for us…and it was delicious.  Other dishes of plantain, rice, cassava, dal leaves and breadfruit.  As custom has we, the guest’s, ate first and were encouraged to eat, eat, eat more…and they didn’t start until we were finished.  A freely woven basket was filled with a sizable hunk of pork to go.  The few items we brought in in the previous days of long grain rice, pasta, potted meat, tinned fish, pumpkin, onions, garlic as well as sundries seemed pale in comparison.  Again the generosity of the Fijian and Banaban locals is genuine and unparalleled.

Sunday Dinner…

Sunday dinner

Keke’s pad in Smiley Bay, a hike across the island.  We spotted 2 wild pigs en route and Terry was very excited about the possibilities.