sv evi

I organized a trip for Riki, Koen, and I to climb Mount Kinabalu. It was a challenge to find a way to book only our accommodation and meals on the mountain, but I managed in the end. We rented a car and drove an hour past the mountain to see the Rafflesia flower, the world’s biggest flower. It takes six to twelve months to bloom, and only blooms for 5-7 days.

We slept in a hotel just outside the park entrance to start acclimatizing. The following morning, we had a fancy buffet breakfast inside Mount Kinabalu National Park in the Liwago restaurant. It was an unexpected treat before starting our climb.

Then we parked our car, walked to the registration center, paid for our climb permit, collected our sack lunches, and met our guide Jennius. Jennius is 59 years old. He has worked on the mountain for 15 years, first as a porter, then as a guide. He has summited around 600 times. He was from the Dusun ethnic group, and he spoke in Dusun with the other porters and guides. Jennius and I spoke in Malaysian (well I spoke in Indonesian, and he in Malaysian…they are ‘same same but different’).

We got a shuttle to the trailhead and started climbing…many stairs! The trailhead elevation was 1,866 meters (6,122 feet). It was 6 km (3.6 miles) and 4,613 feet of elevation gain to the Laban Rata resthouse, at 3,272 meters (about 10,735 feet). We arrived early — before we could check into our room. The important thing is that we arrived before the rain started…other climbers arrived soaking wet. Riki and I taught Koen how to play cribbage while we waited to check in to our room.

The Laban Rata rest house had a ski lodge vibe. There was only electricity at certain times during the day. They had showers, but only freezing cold water. They served a buffet dinner with so many options! We did some carb-loading with mashed potatoes and spaghetti. We saw many porters on the way, carrying beer, jugs of diesel for the generator, linens — everything is carried up by human power.

We woke at 1:30 am, had some jook at 2 am, and started climbing at 2:30 am. We had 823 meters (2, 716 feet) to cover in 3 km (1.8 miles) to reach the summit (4,095 meters or 13,514 feet) before sunrise. More stairs ensued…then just walking up granite slabs, following fixed ropes lying on the ground, to the top. We had perfect weather — just past full moon and a starry sky. It was windy at the top, but not too cold.

As I climbed, one foot in front of the other, I mused on what I love about climbing mountains. I love how it simplifies life to just me and the mountain. The rest of the world recedes. I thought of how my dad died at 60 years old of pancreatic cancer; of how quickly he accepted his fate and said, “I’ve had a good life”. I remember thinking: how can he do that? how is he not clinging to life, wanting more? And as I climbed I thought, if death came for me now, I would say the same thing. I have had a good life. I have given it my all.

Koen and Riki reached the summit ahead of Jennius and I, and by the time we arrived right before sunrise, they were ready to head back down. I stayed on the summit and enjoyed the views for awhile. I also asked various random strangers to take my photo, haha. I have climbed many mountains in my life, and I think the views from Mount Kinabalu take the cake!

Do you wonder what Tomu, Jade, and Luz were doing while we climbed? Jade was in charge of reheating spaghetti carbonara for one night’s dinner and one day’s lunch. I taught her how to fry breakfast eggs before I left. Jade also washed the dishes. Luz took out the trash and refilled the water bottles (we use rainwater to wash dishes). Tomu dried and put the dishes away. They did one subject of school per day. They had the radio on channel 69 during the day to communicate with Sanne on SV Nebo and Brigitte on SV Anova. They texted us updates. Brigitte and Bruno took all 5 kids to play pickleball. Sanne took them all bowling and to the Japanese restaurant. They went to the pool. They were allowed to watch two episodes per day of Avatar Airbender. We got home to find the boat clean, and our beds made by Jade. I feel so lucky (and proud!) to be the mama of those three humans. Also thankful to Sanne and Brigitte for helping to care for them in our absence!